Frugal trend: buying second hand

Just over a year ago, I was interviewed by a New York Times business reporter for an article might do on ethical fashion. She decided (about two minutes into the interview) that there was "no story here" but asked me what trends might be worth watching. I suggested the second hand clothing market (swapping, eBay, thrifting, refashioning) and she pretty much said the idea was ridiculous.

The Orlando (FL) Sentinel ran a story today about surviving the recession by not buying new, but considering second hand. According to the author, Linda Shrieves

"The National Association of Resale & Thrift Shops surveyed its
members recently and found that, in September and October, sales were
up an average of 35 percent from previous years."

Sounds like a trend to me...

Frugality in the Face of Less

Unity Marketing released a survey of luxury spending by wealthy consumers yesterday, and the results are not really surprising. In the last quarter of 2008, these consumers (average yearly income just under $200,000) reduced their luxury spending (which includes "luxury fashion accessories, kitchenware, electronics and upscale home furnishings") by 6.4%. Clothing retailers, in general, are facing a tough consumer environment for at least the first three quarters of 2009. Ironically, one of the impediments may be the deep discounts they offered during the holiday season; getting people to pay full price after all those 75% off bargains may be tricky. Several of the articles I have read speculate that this new frugality may be permanent, and in my case, they might be right.

Right now, my financial situation -- a full year sabbatical at half pay -- is enforcing serious frugality. Although I have a wish list of purchases for when my income returns to normal (mostly electronics), I am also looking at retirement within 5-10 years. So if economists are looking for me -- and near-retirement Baby Boomers like me -- to help the retail picture in 2009 and beyond, they're going to be disappointed. These days, my discretionary dollars go to supporting my local yarn shop, my local brew pub, my church and Amtrak. It feels like I have a lifetime supply of clothing, and most of what I see in the stores is not very tempting. I wonder, is this an age thing, a class thing or something bigger?

Black Belt Minimal Fashion: the Suitcase Wardrobe

I am currently on a research/writing trip which has taken me from my home near Washington, D.C. to Bird-in-Hand, Pennsylvania, Bedford Hills and Rochester New York and eventually to my brother's home near North Bay, Ontario. Today I leave for Indianapolis, by way of Chicago. Most of the travel has been done by train, and I will have had convenient (i.e., free) access to laundry facilities twice along the way. It's an interesting way to explore minimalist fashion, and it's time to report on the experience so far.

1) Minimalist fashion is climate-dependent. What is considered "minimal" in southern California would be inadequate in North Bay in January.

2) Minimalist fashion is activity-dependent. I have been indoors and sedentary most of the time, and have managed to avoid anything resembling formal events.

3) Context (climate and activity) aside, a successful minimal wardrobe provides comfort, utility and satisfaction. This means pieces that layer, serve multiple uses and meet the wearer's need for tactile and aesthetic satisfaction. Pockets, too!

4) It is possible to wear many items more than one day without being noticed, especially when traveling.

My suitcase wardrobe for this trip (26 days) consisted of three pairs of pants (1 jeans, 2 corduroys), 7 tops (ranging from a tissue-weight T-shirt to a pair of fleece pullovers), 7 days' worth of socks and undies, flannel pajama bottoms, a set of silk long underwear, a lightweight robe, two pair of shoes and pair of slipper socks. I also have a warm coat, hat, scarf, mittens and boots -- it was in the mid -20s today in North Bay. I could probably have eliminated one pair of corduroys, the robe and one pair of shoes, but that wouldn't have saved my enough room to be able to use the next smallest suitcase. I also wish my tops were more varied in color or texture; this fashion minimalist likes some aesthetic stimulation! But I did bring along a selection of my favorite earrings just to jazz things up. My favorite travel item so far has been the silk underwear (turtleneck and leggings) -- they are the best way to address the temperature difference between Rochester, NY and North Bay, ON without adding bulk to your body or weight to your luggage.

"Dry Clean Only" -- what are my choices?

Thanks to Jacob for the link to this article in the New York Times.

Reporter Mireya Navarro explores green claims by dry cleaners, which, it turns out, are "not regulated at all". The usual solvent used in dry cleaning, perchloroethylene or perc, is linked to various nasty health problems, including cancer. The EPA has ordered "that perc be phased out in dry cleaners operating in residential buildings by 2020", which gives you some idea how great it is! The "green" cleaners are using other solvents which are not much better. There are no government standards for what makes dry cleaning "green", so once again the consumer if left to self-educate and beware. According to the article,

"The environmentally preferable choice for dry cleaning, experts say,
involves little more than water. In a process known as wet cleaning,
garments are washed with water and biodegradable detergents in
computerized machines that carefully control variables like agitation.
Most stains are water soluble, and most items labeled “dry clean
only” can be professionally wet cleaned without shrinkage or
damage, studies have found."

The Pollution Prevention Center at Occidental College has quite a bit of useful information on the topic.

And yes, you can hand wash that cashmere sweater in cold water and biodegradable detergent and it will be just fine. No wringing or twisting, though.