Transparency in Standards: BuyGreen.com

Not everyone wants to broadcast their green habits with printed slogans (think "This is not a plastic bag" totebags). Personally, I just want some assurance that the things I buy and use are in line with my own values, and if the Whole World Wants to Know what those are, they can read my blog. But that requires that manufacturers and retailers not be shy or disingenuous about their products, so I can make an informed decision. I've already identified some suppliers who make an effort at transparency in labelling and selection standards, and here's one more: BuyGreen.com. Their published standards are not only clear and detailed information about their products, but a nice starting point for thinking about ethical fashion in general.

Looking for eco-friendly textiles? These tips make it easier.

I've been kvetching quite a bit lately about the lack of information -- and abundance of misinformation -- about eco-fashion's latest darling, bamboo. The short version is that most bamboo on the market is rayon made from bamboo, and that it may or may not have any number of miraculous qualities. My personal take on the general topic of eco-fibers, as a consumer who knows the difference between rayon, silk and cotton, is that I prefer to do business with designers and manufacturers who treat me like a grown-up. My list of tips is still a work in progress, but here's the latest snapshot.

1) What do they call it? Finding "rayon from bamboo" or "bamboo lyocell" on the label makes me feel a whole lot more confident that the manufacturer understands the materials being used and federal labeling regulations. Ditto "azlon from soy" or "corn azlon". There is a reason why the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act exists -- to protect consumers. When someone buys bamboo or soy clothing or yarn, thinking they are "natural", they are misinformed. When their mistaken belief is based on a label or online catalog blurb, that's misinformation. Until the FTC starts enforcing its own regulations, the buyer needs to beware and be wary.

2) Are they honest about the pros and cons and uncertainties? As anyone who's pursued sustainable living knows, it's all about compromises and tough choices. Every day I read a dozen or so fashion bloggers gushing about a new company producing eco-chic clothing. When I look at the website, it's all hype. I appreciate the honesty of companies that are more transparent about the complexities of sourcing and who make an honest attempt to educate consumers.

3) Are they trendiness wolves in sustainable lambs' clothing? What's the difference between some breathless flak telling me that skinny jeans are this year's must-have and her "green is the new black" cousin in ecstasies over some trendy item made from recycled Post-it notes that is designed to be out-of-style in a season? Sheesh. If you want to convince me of your green bonafides, try for well-made, classic, versatile styles, not sartorial one-night stands.

Here are a few of my nominations for companies trying to get it right. Feel free to post your own favorites, as well.

Nike (yes, Nike). Not only are they using their corporate clout to build the organic cotton market, but check the fiber content for their soy jersey line of yoga clothing: "57% soy azlon/38% cotton (5% organic)/5% spandex"

Fashion and Earth. At the other end of the corporate spectrum is this small Canadian newcomer. I sent them one of my NWL "didn't you mean bamboo rayon?" comments and president Adrian Desbarats answered,

"I think this is an excellent point that you bring up AND, you are correct. I have been so busy working on company development that this little, yet important distinction, escaped my notice. However, given that there is some debate regarding bamboo, I agree that there must be clarity when providing bamboo textiles for the consumer – is it bamboo fiber or bamboo rayon? I will have this changed."

And he did. Wow. Integrity and customer responsiveness.

Bamboosa was on the scene when the only bamboo on most people's radar was the stuff invading their back yards. Readers know that I've had some heated email and comment exchanges with Morris Saintsing, their head of sales development and operations. While they don't use the R_ word in their labeling, their website is a model of up-front consumer information about their products and processes, even when that information is technical, such as their explanation of their choice of dyes.

Patagonia's website is more than a catalog, it's a textbook on the environmental impact of clothing. Spend some time on the Environmentalism section of the site (especially my favorite part, the Footprint Chronicles, which lets you see the impact of various products). Their explanation of their e-fibers selections is required reading for the serious green consumer.

Additions to the NWL green honor role are welcome!

My friends Liz Claiborne and Eddie Bauer

A while ago I called it quits with Eddie Bauer, my long-time beau. It was the classic case of irreconcilable differences; I care deeply whether or not my clothing was ethically and sustainably produced, and Eddie -- well, he talked the talk (all that outdoorsy stuff), but it was hard to tell where he stood, and there were, as the old song goes, "Too many fish in the sea". A lady does have choices, after all.

The other mainstay in my wardrobe was Liz Claiborne. She's my go-to gal for work and dressy attire, mainly because her ability to balance classic styling with fresh details. Given the tendency of most "green" lines to be either too-casual or outrageously priced, it was important for me to know where my friend Liz stands on the issues close to my heart. The company faired so-so in the recent Climate Counts scorecard, mainly losing points on lack of public information about its practices. Yet they were recognized for "making efforts towards...reducing the company's impact on global warming"; it seemed to me that Liz Claiborne, Inc. shouldn't hide its light under a bushel, but let consumers know more about whatever good things they are doing.

So I wrote to the company and got back a nice (though, of course, not very personal) response providing more detail about their efforts:


Our sustainable policy includes two major components to help minimize
our impact on the environment and achieve our environmental objectives:

* Waste Reduction and Recycling - Helping to preserve the
environment by using the principles of reducing, reusing, and recycling.

* Resource Conservation - Focusing on improving energy
efficiency in building design and construction, energy conservation best
practices in existing and future facilities, reducing energy costs
through environmental controls and identifying opportunities in new and
innovative programs offered through utility companies and with local,
state and national agencies.

Additionally, we recently formed an environmental working group within
our company to review our environmental practices and policy on an
ongoing basis to ensure we are moving forward on that front.

Looking deeper on their website, I found that Liz Claiborne is also a participating company in the Fair Labor Association and has made a commitment to decent and fair working conditions for the people who make their clothing. This is good news, and certainly helps me feel more comfortable about my next Liz Claiborne purchase. Even better -- Eddie is on the FLA list, too! I was able to find more information buried in the Eddie Bauer website.

One of the reasons that Climate Counts publishes it score card is so consumers -- and stock holders -- can encourage the so-so companies to keep up the good work and do a little more. If you have a favorite brand or retailer, do a little homework on them, and let them know that ethical fashion matters to you as a customer. And a lady does have choices, after all.

Green Fashion: The Scorecard

Climate Counts has issued its second annual Climate Counts Company Scorecard, which ranks major companies in several sectors (Apparel/Accessories, Electronics, Household Products and six others) according to their self-reported activities to addressing climate change. The entire report (pdf format) is an interesting read, since it relates the challenges and opportunities of going green on a corporate scale. They also offer a printable pocket guide (also pdf format) you can take shopping with you. The annual report's major drawback is that they limit their analysis to only the most popular and largest companies. So Nike (good) makes the report, as does Levi Strauss (one of the most improved) and Jones Apparel Group (in the basement with a big fat goose egg), but not Patagonia or American Apparel. One very handy feature -- the individual report page for each company not only explains in detail the reasons for their score, but offers an email link so you can let them know that sustainable fashion is important to you. As a longtime Liz Claiborne customer, I will certainly let them know that I think it's great that they are making an effort to reduce their impact on global warming, but suggest that customers would like more self-reporting and transparency about their pro-environment activities.

As for Jones Apparel group, who make some of my favorites brands, tsk, tsk! They earned a score of zero, indicating no activity in this area at all; someone at Jones needs to wake up!