Forever 21, sweatshops and the hidden cost of fast fashion

It's the inconvenient truth of the rag trade: an abundance of cheap, trendy clothes -- also known as "fast fashion" -- carries a hidden cost of human misery. For the American consumer, it is easy to ignore the problem of sweatshop labor because, like the migrant workers who harvest our food, the people who make our clothing are mostly invisible. "Sweatshop" once referred to a system of production, where garment producers contracted with middlemen to handle unskilled tasks on a piecework basis. Because of the fierce competition among these subcontractors, this "sweating" system tended to not only depress wages, but place tremendous pressure on the middlemen to do just about anything to increase productivity, resulting in long workdays, crowded workplaces and grinding working conditions. After the Triangle Shirtwaist fire in 1911, labor laws and unionization helped improve conditions, propelled by consumer demand for sweat-free products.

Since the 1970s, the gains of the Progressive Era began to be eroded, first by relocating of garment production to parts of the US with fewer unions, and then to countries with less worker protection. Out of sight, out of mind.

Every once in a while, we are reminded that sweatshops still exist within our borders, despite the legal protections available. In a recent news story, LA Times reporter Shan Li described a Labor Department investigation of fast-fashion icon Forever 21 for "'significant' violations of federal laws on minimum wage, overtime and record-keeping by vendors supplying the company". It is important to understand that, since 1994, the federal government no longer defines a sweatshop by the contracting arrangement by according to non-compliance with federal or state labor laws. For the truly wonkish, there is a searchable database of investigations at the Department of Labor Database (try a search on apparel, filtering by OSHA violations, for example). For those with a more activist inclination, check out Sweatfree Communities and the National Consumers League.

Occupy your closet?

As part of the Occupy movement, I am participating in a teach-in on my campus on November 3. I will be doing it in the Fashion and Consumer Culture course which will be conveniently in the middle of a unit on sustainability. When I saw the teach-in notice, I immediately saw the connection between economic injustice and consumerism, but I wonder how much I will have to explain to get students into the conversation. What do you see connecting the two?

more on the downside of GMO cotton

Cotton, Inc. has been happily touting cotton as "environmentally friendly", thanks to the supposed pest-resistant genetically modified varieties now available. Tara Lohan of Alternet interviewed science policy advocate Vananda Shiva, about the suicides of 1,500 farmers in India and tells another side of the story:

When Monsanto's Bt cotton was introduced, the seed costs jumped from 7 rupees per kilo to 17,000 rupees per kilo. Our survey shows a thirteenfold increase in pesticide use in cotton in Vidharbha. Meantime, the $4 billion subsidy given to U.S. agribusiness for cotton has led to dumping and depression of international prices.

Squeezed between high costs and negative incomes, farmers commit suicide when their land is being appropriated by the money lenders who are the agents of the agrichemical and seed corporations. The suicides are thus a direct result of industrial globalized agriculture and corporate monopoly on seeds.

The next time you are tempted to buy that inexpensive cotton T-shirt, add this information to your calculation of the true cost. I am finding more and more organic cotton clothing every week, and am willing to buy one organic T,  instead of two regular ones.

ETA: In response to Abraham's comment, I located the Guardian (UK) article and the report on which it was based. The gist of the report is that this is a more complex issue than the Alternet interview suggests. However, it is also more complex than the Guardian article implies. The original report (pdf) argues that the role of Bt cotton in farmer suicides is overstated, but that "Bt cotton may have played a role in specific cases and seasons". The phenomenon may also be a thing of the past: "The initial high price of Bt cotton seeds and the limited number of initial varieties available due to the lack of competition are becoming less problematic, with more varieties approved and a second, non-Monsanto trait commercially available since 2006." And they seem to lay the blame not so much on the characteristics of Bt cotton itself as the marketing approaches used by the company:

"At the same time, our analysis suggests the need for a better extension system, more controlled seed marketing system, anti-fraud enforcement, and better information dissemination among farmers in all regions, before the introduction of any costly new technologies like Bt cotton. Information should not come from seed dealers, whose job it is to promote and sell their technologies without explaining their proper use."

 The upside of Bt cotton is that it reduces the need for pesticides, a major problem with conventional cotton culture. As a consumer, I have grown wary of innovations that may come with hidden, perhaps long-term price tags. Insects were the problem, pesticides were the solution. Now pesticides are the problem; are GMO the best solution?

Green Fashion Roundup -- Earth Day, Loomstate for Target, green BOGO at Payless

With Earth Day coming up, the volume of green fashion news is expanding. Here are a few tasty morsels from my inbox:

Business events for Earth Day/April 2009 (KABC-TV in Los Angeles) spotlights environmentally-themed events and promotions from Macy's, Disney Stores, JCPenny and others. My personal favorite: "Hoochie on the Coochie", the "blue jeans chic" dinner dance benefit for the Georgia Nature Conservancy.

Loomstate + Target = affordable green fashion (complex.com) Loomstate's organic cotton t-shirts and jeans are wonderful -- and pricey! On April 19, you will be able to find a new Loomstate organic collection at your local Target. Very good news.

Green BOGO at Payless (PR Newswire - sev.prnewswire.com) will promote the discount shoe chain's new Zoe & Zac green brand. Payless will donate a minimum $100,000 to The Nature Conservancy to plant trees in the Atlantic Forest in Brazil. They are pledging $1 of each Zoe and Zac BOGO(TM) (Buy One, Get One Half Off) sale, and expect the promotion to exceed the $100,000 minimum.

Make Me Sustainable

Thanks to a session at the Popular Culture Association meeting this afternoon, I can pass along a very interesting and inspiring website, http://makemesustainable.com . It's a combination social network/goal-tracking site. A tip of my green hat to Meghan Lynch, of Drexel University for a great paper!

Going green at Wal-mart? Organic cotton jeans for $18

I need new jeans. Many ethical shoppers are not fans of Wal-mart. The discount retail giant has been trying hard to lay to rest consumer concerns about its pay scale, its anti-union stance and its tendency to supplant local stores. But consider this: since at least 2006, Wal-mart has been using its size and influence to boost the market for organic cotton. In fact, they are probably the largest purchaser of $100 organic cotton products, which gives them considerable clout. And the result is affordable, environmentally-friendly clothing, like these organic cotton bootcut jeans for $18. Both the fabric and the jeans are imported, but in recent years Wal-mart has introduced its Ethical Standards Program "to strengthen the implementation of positive labor and environmental practices in factories". $18 for a pair of organic cotton jeans is an amazing price.

Ethical consumption is rarely a clear-cut path; it involves having good information and self-awareness. Ultimately, consumption decisions are personal: What do I value? What am I willing to sacrifice for my values? What options are completely off the table? Loomstate, Levis, and Orvis all make organic cotton jeans, as well -- for a very pretty penny, and with no more guarantee that they are ethically produced. I value sustainability and fair labor practices, but my clothes must fit my person as well as my pocketbook. It would appear that an exploratory trip to Wal-Mart is in my future.

Good News: Eco-trends surviving the recession

Business Intelligence Middle East has a long, interesting article about green trends that are defying the economic downturn. Among the more fascination snippets:

Many consumers are eager to flaunt their green behaviour and possessions because there are now millions of other consumers who are actually impressed by green lifestyles. As per the above, ECO-ICONIC is not about all green products, it’s about those products that through their distinct appearance or stories actually show that they're green, or at least invoke some curiosity from onlookers, and thus help their owners/users attract recognition from their peers.

I can attest to that; one of my favorite pairs of earrings (purchased at 10,000 Villages) is made of rolled-up paper, like the beads you used to make at summer camp. People notice and comment on them all the time, which give me the chance to say a little something about recycling and fair trade. That's one way fashion helps us construct identity, by providing an opening for social interaction that reveals our values.

Chic Without Guilt (Slate.com)

Patty and Sandy Stonesifer have an article on Salon.com that reminds me of the sustainable style challenge I gave myself a while ago.Back during the holidays in 2007, I set out to assemble an ethical dressy ensemble for my daughter. (For the results, see the update post.) My experiment was on a much smaller scale - a single outfit, not a wardrobe. We built upon a thrift store skirt, and the Stonesifers went retail all the way. But their article shows, once again, that there ARE options out there, especially online.

The comments on Salon are also interesting, and food for much though and future blog posts.

Rodarte's interpretation of eco-fashion

Red-carpet watchers at last night's Oscars loved Natalie Portman's pink gown by Pasadena design team Rodarte. Rodarte (sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy) is a newcomer to the fashion scene, but is already making a name for itself for sophisticated, hand-crafted styles. Portman is already known for her eco-fashion -- she designed her own line of vegan footwear -- and she is regularly photographed in Rodarte.

Rodarte presents an interesting category of eco-fashion. They are less focused on materials -- they do use hemp blends and environmentally-friendly dyes, but they don't lead with that story in their marketing. Instead, they emphasize process and handwork. In an interview with Treehuggers Emma Grady, Kate Mulleavy explained Rodarte's environmental efforts:

1. From within our company, we have set up a means to recycle all paper and plastic items. We have chosen to use canteens and glasses, instead of bottled water.
   
2. The hand detailing, beading, embroidery, pinning,sewing, and cutting of our clothing allows for us to produce our garments without industrial waste or exhaust.
   
3. Dyeing: our dyeing is a key element to our collection. We have chosen to use a beautiful dyeing process that can only be done on natural fibers. The process allows for our colors to be clear, and pure. This dyeing process is very much a dying art. It is done with all environmentally friendly pigments and without harsh chemicals and without producing industrial waste.
   
4. We privilege craft and technique over mass production, large quantities, and gratuitous waste.

The result is clothing which looks gorgeous, stylish and expensive but not overtly "green".

My mind keeps wandering back to the clothing restrictions of World War II and the importance of obvious adherence to the rules for self-enforcement. (If a woman's dress did not meet the restrictions, it was evident to everyone who saw her.) For green fashion to be persuasive, does it need to be obvious?

"Who are you wearing?" Some kid from Uzbekistan

In a restaurant, we overheard a common exchange. “Nice shirt,” said one patron. “Where’s it from?”

The fashionista offered a store name. We returned to our meals.

The question lingered.

Where’s it from? Not just this shirt. Any shirt. Look at your own label. Where’s it from?

Chances are it went through numerous hands before ending up on your
back. That’s where the question takes new meaning. Where’s it from?
And, who’s it from?

In the beginning, there was a child.

So begins this detailed and provocative story of textile and clothing production from a global perspective. It gives whole new meaning to the red carpet question, "Who are you wearing?" We are seeing in the current economic crisis that consumption has consequences -- good and bad. Buy too much (especially on credit) and we save or invest too little, and mortgage our future. Buy too little and there's suffering all the way along the supply chain, from the retailer back to the seven-year-old picking cotton in Uzbekistan. Here's an idea: a future where the work is done by adequately paid adults in humane conditions and with less damge to the environment. Would Americans pay $30 for a T-shirt or $100 for non-designer jeans? If not, what is the answer?

Independent Handbag Designer Awards™ announces prizes for ‘eco’ designers

I am not a handbag designer, but I'd love to see the entries to this competition! The source, Ecopreneurist, is  part of the Green Options network, which is a motherlode of sustainability information.

New Resource: Green Fashionista.tv

If you prefer your green fashion info video-style, instead of text. There's a new option: The Green Fashionista.tv, a video blog by California-based eco-stylist Pam Brandon. Accordng to the website,

The Green Fashionista is an Internet TV
program sharing green fashion information, facts, tips and how-tos. We
cover green fashion topics like eco-fashions made from sustainable
fabrics, how to recycle what you already own, and where to shop for
used and eco-friendly fashion.  We also have fun with topics such
as celebrities who are dressing green, finding a popular look in a
green version, and more. Host Pam Brandon proves you can look fabulous
and leave a smaller carbon footprint by going green in the fashion
scene!

So far, I like what I see. It's a nice blend of DIY, interviews and trend-spotting.

Making "green" sexy: Eco-Boudoir

Too many journalists writing about eco-fashion trot out the tired old stereotype that environmentally-friendly fashion was once somehow about hairy legs and Birkenstocks. It's always been about making smart, planet-conscious and ethically aware choices. And, as this video from Eco-Boudoir demonstrates, that can be pretty darn sexy. Not safe for work!

I am not completely happy with this site; the fiber information under "Good Pants" manages to omit the fact that bamboo fabric=rayon, not some new material, and it ascribes unsubstantiated magical qualities to the fabric on the basis of their presence in the raw fiber. On the plus side, they do mention some of the industry's misgivings about bamboo rayon processing, and they do not attribute magical properities to soy fiber, as some sites have. (It's good for your skin!)

Conscious Consumption, Christmas edition #4 -- Fair Trade

If fair trade consumption is a priority for you, the options for ethical gift-shopping have been multiplying. Much as I love making things, I can't always spare the time to make all my gifts. (Besides, my friends and family can only use so many mittens, socks and scarves.) The next best thing, for me, is to support local craftspeople or entrepreneurs in developing countries whose work is fair trade. (By fair trade, I mean fairly-paid, clean and dignified work.) Some of my favorite gifts have been either local products (soaps, bath salts, a lovely hand-woven scarf) or imported fair-trade items (recycled paper earrings from Ten ThousandVillages -- a gift to myself!!!).
As promised, here are a few links to get you started:

Alternative Gift Fairs (Washington, DC area)
WorldofGood.com by eBay
Ten Thousand Villages
SERRV international
Etsy

Sometimes these are bargains (those $10 earrings!), but often they cost more than mass-produced items, as they should!

Buying for Equality: A Different Take on Ethical Fashion

After the Proposition 8 debacle in California, I'm adding support for LBGT concerns to my list of facets of ethical fashion. As always, it pays to be vocal. Let manufacturers know why you are supporting them -- or not. I have been leaning on the "making progress" firms on my list, to encourage them in that direction. The Human Rights Campaign has a great website that makes activism easier.

Needs and wants: the euphoria of retail therapy

I came across this old news item in a waiting-room magazine. It's about a study (funded by T.J. Maxx) that indicated that the euphoric jolt of finding a designer item at a discount price is more pleasurable than "eating a piece of chocolate". Depends on the chocolate, I say, but that's another study.

The pleasures of shopping are a fascinating topic; I recall some theorizing some time ago that women enjoy shopping because we are wired to get a charge out of spying the elusive berry, from our prehistoric "gathering" days. Shopping has been much on my mind lately, as the days grew colder and I noticed some gaps in my winter wardrobe. Facing a year on half salary as I write my book, I'm trying to limit spending, and on a strictly pragmatic level (number of items of each type), I didn't need anything.

However. My everyday wardrobe was boring, and not quite warm enough for my chilly house, without layering to the point where I felt restricted. Not only are the colors bland (lots of white, black and brown) but my shirts were tactally unsatisfying flat knits: T-shirts (short-sleeved, long-sleeved, v-necks) and turtlenecks. Each morning, I'd open my shirt drawer and think "who cares?", pull something out, put it on and forget about it. Once dressed, I forgot what I was wearing. To some extent, that's good. I am trying to focus on daily progress on a huge task. But that downer moment with the open drawer was bothering me.

I was also starting to have the jones for shopping. Usually, it's satisfied with a trip to the library or my weekly grocery shopping, but the desire to find that perfect, ripe, sun-warmed berry and pop it in my mouth was undeniable. What's a Nice White Lady to do?

Solution #1: A trip to my favorite thrift store, where, after forty minutes of careful searching, I scored a brand new J. Jill fleece pullover in Neopolitan coconut candy colors (pink, white, brown) for $15 (original tag: $70). It is a particularly fluffy kind of fleece, nearly weightless and very cozy. I have worn it three days in a row, over T-shirts and turtlenecks. Now that's euphoria!

Solution #2: Realizing that I need a sensory blast once the leaves are on the ground and the days get darker, I sat down and ordered two new fleece turtlenecks in bright colors from Land's End.

Bottom Line: I need to add an item to my "ideal consumption" wish list.

My clothes should make me happy, not just covered.

Consumption: How much and what kind?

No Impact Man, one of my very favorite green bloggers, poses a nest of discussion questions about our consuming habits.

Doesn't reducing consumption make perfect sense? Why is it the elephant
in the living room? Are people too selfish to consume less? How do we
move towards a less consumptive society? How much would it help with
the climate crisis?

What I know best is clothes, and I can see what ideal consumption might look like,for me:

• 80% of my wardrobe would consist of basics (underwear, socks, classic skirts, jeans, plain tops) that would form the backdrop and foundation for the 20% of my wardrobe devoted to really special pieces (accessories and festive clothing)
• the 80% basic wardrobe would be made by fairly paid workers, using environmentally sound materials and methods
• the 20% "special" wardrobe would artisan-made, either by me (in my ample free time) or a fairly-paid craftsperson.
• a robust textile products recycling system, including refashioning, second-hand clothing and raw material recycling similar to existing paper, metal and plastic systems.
• expansion of clothing rental programs for women -- wedding dresses, formals, high-end maternity wear.
• better labeling so consumers could easily identify green, ethical and fair trade products.

This wish list makes me very aware that when it comes to reducing the impact of clothing, the rate of consumption is key. To really make an impact in this area, consumers will need to buy new styles less often, wear their clothing longer before cleaning, launder it responsibly, mend or alter clothing to extend its life, and dispose of it responsibly.

The fashion industry (manufacturing, promotion and retailing) needs to shift its focus away from fast fashion (short trends and rapid obsolescence), and this will be the hardest part. There are millions of contractors and workers in this industry, and it is highly competitive. A sudden shift in America's demand for cheap T-shirts and trendy clothing will be felt by many, many low-wage workers around the world. I don't know the answer to that. I do remember a talk by an ILGWU representative thirty years ago, when a similar question was asked about preserving jobs in American clothing factories. She said, "Almost none of our workers want their kids following in their footsteps. These are not great jobs". But they are jobs.

Ethical Fashion Forum

I am on a book-writing roll right now, so can't get too off-task, but this bit of news distracted me:

The Ethical Fashion Forum is a UK-based organization promoting ethical fashion to professionals and consumers. Looks like a promising source for information and energy.

Looking for eco-friendly textiles? These tips make it easier.

I've been kvetching quite a bit lately about the lack of information -- and abundance of misinformation -- about eco-fashion's latest darling, bamboo. The short version is that most bamboo on the market is rayon made from bamboo, and that it may or may not have any number of miraculous qualities. My personal take on the general topic of eco-fibers, as a consumer who knows the difference between rayon, silk and cotton, is that I prefer to do business with designers and manufacturers who treat me like a grown-up. My list of tips is still a work in progress, but here's the latest snapshot.

1) What do they call it? Finding "rayon from bamboo" or "bamboo lyocell" on the label makes me feel a whole lot more confident that the manufacturer understands the materials being used and federal labeling regulations. Ditto "azlon from soy" or "corn azlon". There is a reason why the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act exists -- to protect consumers. When someone buys bamboo or soy clothing or yarn, thinking they are "natural", they are misinformed. When their mistaken belief is based on a label or online catalog blurb, that's misinformation. Until the FTC starts enforcing its own regulations, the buyer needs to beware and be wary.

2) Are they honest about the pros and cons and uncertainties? As anyone who's pursued sustainable living knows, it's all about compromises and tough choices. Every day I read a dozen or so fashion bloggers gushing about a new company producing eco-chic clothing. When I look at the website, it's all hype. I appreciate the honesty of companies that are more transparent about the complexities of sourcing and who make an honest attempt to educate consumers.

3) Are they trendiness wolves in sustainable lambs' clothing? What's the difference between some breathless flak telling me that skinny jeans are this year's must-have and her "green is the new black" cousin in ecstasies over some trendy item made from recycled Post-it notes that is designed to be out-of-style in a season? Sheesh. If you want to convince me of your green bonafides, try for well-made, classic, versatile styles, not sartorial one-night stands.

Here are a few of my nominations for companies trying to get it right. Feel free to post your own favorites, as well.

Nike (yes, Nike). Not only are they using their corporate clout to build the organic cotton market, but check the fiber content for their soy jersey line of yoga clothing: "57% soy azlon/38% cotton (5% organic)/5% spandex"

Fashion and Earth. At the other end of the corporate spectrum is this small Canadian newcomer. I sent them one of my NWL "didn't you mean bamboo rayon?" comments and president Adrian Desbarats answered,

"I think this is an excellent point that you bring up AND, you are correct. I have been so busy working on company development that this little, yet important distinction, escaped my notice. However, given that there is some debate regarding bamboo, I agree that there must be clarity when providing bamboo textiles for the consumer – is it bamboo fiber or bamboo rayon? I will have this changed."

And he did. Wow. Integrity and customer responsiveness.

Bamboosa was on the scene when the only bamboo on most people's radar was the stuff invading their back yards. Readers know that I've had some heated email and comment exchanges with Morris Saintsing, their head of sales development and operations. While they don't use the R_ word in their labeling, their website is a model of up-front consumer information about their products and processes, even when that information is technical, such as their explanation of their choice of dyes.

Patagonia's website is more than a catalog, it's a textbook on the environmental impact of clothing. Spend some time on the Environmentalism section of the site (especially my favorite part, the Footprint Chronicles, which lets you see the impact of various products). Their explanation of their e-fibers selections is required reading for the serious green consumer.

Additions to the NWL green honor role are welcome!

SolesUnited: Crocs reincarnation program

Love your Crocs but not sure how eco-friendly they are? Treehugger gave them green points for being lightweight and constructed nearly entirely from a single material. They just went up another notch, with SolesUnited, a program that collects well-worn Crocs, recycles them into new shoes and distributes the shoes to people in need all around the world.